Khari Baoli: How to Visit the Old Delhi Spice Market on Your Own
Khari Baoli in Old Delhi is one of the city’s top tourist attractions. It’s Asia’s largest spice market and part of India’s Mughal history.
But it can be challenging to visit on your own. It’s a chaotic, dirty and noisy part of Delhi, but also fascinating. Many tourists opt for a guided tour, but you don’t have to.
I used to live in Delhi and have visited the spice market numerous times. I’m going to explain exactly where the market is, what to buy (and what not to), and how to get up on the rooftop for great photographs.
Khari Baoli: How to Visit Old Delhi’s Spice Market on Your Own
Many tourists choose to take a guided tour through Old Delhi. And I get it, this area is overwhelming. But you don’t have to. You can easily do the spice market and Old Delhi on your own.
Best Time to Go to Khari Baoli
The best time to go to the spice market is in the morning. The market gets more crowded and hotter as the day progresses. Shops are open by 11 am.
Khari Baoli market is closed on Sundays. While a few stalls may be open, most won’t. Neighbouring Chandni Chowk and Chawri Bazaar markets are also closed on Sunday.
How to Get to Khari Baoli
The best way to get to the Old Delhi spice market is by metro.
Taking an Uber or car isn’t a good idea as Chandni Chowk (the road that leads to Khari Baoli) is closed to motorized traffic during the day. Most Ubers don’t want to go there even from the back route, because it’s so traffic congested.
Take the Delhi metro to Chandni Chowk station on the yellow line. Exit at Gate 1 and walk west along Chandhi Chowk to the very end (it’s about 800 metres). You’ll see the big entrance gate for Fatehpuri Masjid slightly on the right.
The spice market starts right at the corner where Khari Baoli Road starts. It’s on the south side of the street. There are shops on the north side, but they’re not part of the spice market.
There are a couple of windy lanes off Khari Baoli Road leading to more spice shops and the sugar market. After about 400 metres on Khari Baoli Road the spice shops peter out, and it becomes Sadar Bazaar. Sadar Bazaar is a super cheap whole sale market. You’ll find household goods, toys, etc. there.
What to Expect
This part of Delhi is very congested. Expect jostling, crowds and a lot of noise. Sidewalks are uneven. The smell of fresh spices and pepper can be strong – it always makes me sneeze.
Prices tend to get lower the deeper you venture into the market.
Khari Baoli is a popular tourist site, and if you look like a foreigner you will probably be charged a premium. But you’re here to experience the sights and sounds of Asia’s largest whole sale spice market, and even with a ‘tourist tax’ it’s still pretty cheap.
Spices, nuts and dry fruit are purchased by grams. Usually 100 or 200 grams. Shop keepers should weigh and bag them for you by order. A shop which has spices already bagged is more tourist focused.
What to Buy
Spices, of course, but Khari Baoli sells a lot of dried fruit, nuts and loose tea.
When I was there during Ramadan there were carts on the roadside selling about 5 varieties of fresh dates. I always purchase kopra at the spice market, whole dried coconuts. They’re great chopped up in trail mix or granola.
Down the lane that leads to the rooftop viewing point (called Gadodia Market) vendors sell namkeen (dry savoury snacks), candy and big blocks of unrefined sugar.
How to Get to the Rooftop
It’s pretty easy to get to the rooftop, but it didn’t look like any of the photos I’ve seen online. Either those pictures were seriously photo shopped, or there were a lot of props! But, since you’re at the market may as well go have a look.
Not far from where Khari Baoli market starts, there’s a lane called Gadodia Market. Go down this lane. About 30 metres or so into Gadodia Market there is staircase on the left that leads up the second and third levels. Ask the local vendors if you’re not sure. They were helpful when I was there.
From the second and third levels you can see it’s a series of connected havelis (traditional mansions) surrounding an open courtyard. The stairs leading all the way to the roof were chained off.
While it wasn’t pretty, it was interesting. When I went up, there was a group of women shelling walnuts with hammers in a side room, and a parade of workmen carrying bags of construction material on their heads.
History of Khari Baoli
There used to be a saltwater stepwell at the site of the market. It was built sometime around 1551, but today there’s no trace of it. ‘Khara’ is saline in Hindi and ‘baoli’ means stepwell.
The market sprang up during the reign of Shah Jahan, the same Mughal ruler who build the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal. In those days it was common to establish markets around mosques, and this one was built beside Fatehpuri Masjid, in the 1650s.
Incidentally, Fatehpuri Masjid was built for one of Shah Jahan’s wives, Fatehpuri Begum (not the one he built the Taj Mahal for). Take a look at the mosque while you’re there – everyone is welcome, but shoes must be removed and women must cover their heads.
Where Else Can You Buy Fresh Spices?
If Khari Baoli is not for you, the best place for good quality spices is INA Market. INA is the best food and produce market in Delhi. I buy my spices from Durga Masala. The shop came highly recommended from a top Indian chef, and they have a great selection.
The Wrap-up on Khari Baoli: How to Visit the Old Delhi Spice Market on Your Own
Even though Old Delhi’s spice market can be a little daunting, don’t let that put you off. It’s one of Delhi’s oldest markets, and also where you can buy good quality, fresh spices.
In many ways this area hasn’t changed much since the 1600s. The main roads and markets are the same, including Khari Baoli. It’s an authentic glimpse into Old Delhi’s history.
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Don’t forget travel insurance! It’s always a good idea to carry travel insurance just in case something goes wrong. I really like and use SafetyWing.
