Suzanne Wanders Delhi contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of the links below, I may receive compensation at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products and services I use and trust. Read my disclaimer for more information.
The streets and lanes of Old Delhi are an intriguing labyrinth of cuisine and culture. If Delhi is the food capital of India, Old Delhi is the epicentre. I live in Delhi and often visit this area just to explore and sample the incredible food. Wherever you eat in Old Delhi, the experience will be culturally rich and delicious. These are my favourite spots for the best food in Old Delhi.
To explore Old Delhi more, consider doing this free DIY heritage walk of Old Delhi.
The Best Food in Old Delhi: Quick Guide
If you’re in a hurry, here’s a quick list of the top food places in Old Delhi:
- Karim’s – famous dhaba for Mughal cuisine
- Aslam Chicken – local eatery specializing in chicken
- Qureshi Kabab Corner – casual spot that specializes in meat kababs
- Paranthe Wali Gali – famous lane with paranthe shops
- Kuremal Mohan Lal – serves frozen fruit stuffed with kulfi (Indian ice cream)
Where to Eat the Best Food in Old Delhi
Between the restaurants, dhabas and street food stands, there is so much choice! These are the ones I visit and I think they have the best food. Keep in mind this is Old Delhi, and parking is very restricted. In most cases, if you are driving you will have to use one of the parking lots and walk to the restaurants. If you’re keen on street food, check out this self-guided street food walk of Old Delhi.
1. Lakhori $$$
A meal at Lakhori, the only fine dining restaurant in Old Delhi, is a special experience. The restaurant is located in Haveli Dharampura, a beautifully restored haveli built in the 1800s that is now a boutique hotel. The restaurant is gorgeous – the restoration kept the original architectural and Mughal design elements. The property was awarded UNESCO’s Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation.
The menu is inspired by traditional Mughal cuisine and the street food Old Delhi is famous for. Food and service are very good, but the real star is the exquisite haveli, and that is what you are really paying for when you dine here. Since 99% of Old Delhi’s havelis are completely dilapidated, this is probably your only chance to experience one up close.
- Address: Haveli Dharampura, No. 2293 Gali Anar, Dharam Pura, Old Delhi
- Website: https://www.havelidharampura.com
2. Al-Gulzar $$
If you are a meat eater, you will enjoy Al-Gulzar. This restaurant is very popular with locals, especially because of its location close to Jama Masjid. There are a few paneer dishes and dals for non-meat eaters, but the menu is predominately chicken and mutton. One specialty they make that you should try is mutton nihari, the slow cooked meat dish from Pakistan. Not many places in Delhi make it anymore and Al-Gulzar is famous for it.
- Address: No. 4092-93 Urdu Bazar Road, (on east side of Gate 1of Jama Masjid), Meena Bazar, Old Delhi
- Website: none
3. Changezi Chicken $$
This budget friendly family restaurant has a loyal following. The best thing to get here is the namesake dish, chicken changezi. Chicken changezi is a Mughal dish which goes all the way back to Genghis Khan. It’s an aromatic curry made from onions, tomatoes, yogurt, and cream. There are lots of chicken dishes and some vegetarian options, but stick to the chicken changezi – it’s the best thing on the menu.
- Address: No. 3614 Netaji Subhash Marg (main road in Daryaganj), Kucha Alam, Khabas Pura, Daryaganj
- Website: none
4. Mughlai Invitation Restaurant $$
Mughlai Invitation Restaurant is another favourite Old Delhi restaurant specializing in meat curry, meat kabobs, tandoori meat – you get the idea! There are a few veg options like rice, soup and grilled veg sandwiches. They’re famous for chicken malai tikka (grilled chicken marinated in spices and yogurt) and mutton raan (a whole leg of lamb); it’s some of the best food you will ever eat in Old Delhi. The mutton raan has to be ordered ahead of time.
- Address: No. 3917 De Roman Street (a lane off Urdu Bazar Road) near Hotel Al Haram across from Jama Masjid, Old Delhi
- Website: none
5. Moti Mahal $$
This Moti Mahal is the original restaurant located in Daryaganj. It is not part of the multitude of franchises that have opened up across Delhi and the rest of India (there’s even a Moti Mahal in Toronto).
The original Moti Mahal is a Delhi landmark. It first opened in 1947 and has seen a lot of history. I have heard many stories from longtime Delhi residents about their Sunday afternoons on the terrace at Moti Mahal. I had to try it for myself and while the decor is very dated, the food is terrific, especially the butter chicken. Moti Mahal definitely has some of the best food in Old Delhi. Even famed chef Gordon Ramsay visited Moti Mahal back in 2001 and declared his love for their butter chicken.
- Address: No. 3704 Netaji Subhash Marg, Old Dariya Ganj, Daryaganj
- Website: none for the original restaurant – this location is not affiliated with the franchise
6. Al Jawahar $$
Al Jawahar opened in 1948 and is named after India’s first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, who inaugurated the restaurant. It’s still run by the same family, now on its fourth generation.
This place is famous for authentic and delicious Mughlai cuisine (a marriage of Mughal and North Indian cuisines, typically quite rich and full of aromatic spices). Make sure you order khameeri roti and nihari, but keep in mind the nihari finishes early here – it’s served for breakfast. Like most Old Delhi eateries, this place is heavy on meat but does have a few veg options like dal and biryani.
- Address: No. 8 Matia Mahal Road (opposite Gate 1 of Jama Masjid), Bazar Matia Mahal, Old Delhi
- Website: https://aljawaharrestaurant.com/index.html
7. Manzoor Hotel $
Non-meat eaters this eatery is for you! Manzoor Hotel does serve a lot of meat (they make one of the best niharis in Delhi), but they also make a wicked egg curry and dahi pakodi, little balls made from mung dal served in a spiced yogurt sauce. Make you sure order khameeri rotis. These rotis are made with yeast and have a more complex flavour and texture than regular rotis.
Don’t let the look of this place put you off, it has some of the best food in Old Delhi. It’s a small and very humble eatery, and you’ll have to go well into Ballimaran market to find it. Just ask anyone local for Manzoor Hotel and they will direct you – it’s well known. Manzoor Hotel is not too far from Haveli Mizra Ghalib, Delhi’s most beloved poet. It’s about a 10 minute walk through the lanes.
- Address: Gali Qasim Jan (off Hamdard Marg in Ballimaran market), Lal Kuan Bazar, Old Delhi
- Website: none
8. Haji Nadeem Shahi Sheermal $
Sheermal is a sweet flatbread made with saffron and topped with dried fruits and nuts. You will find sheermal at different street stands in Old Delhi, especially near Jama Masjid, but Haji Nadeem Shahi Sheermal is one of the best.
Originally the flatbread came from Persia and found its way to Old Delhi with the Mughals. It’s traditionally enjoyed during Ramadan but you can find it in Old Delhi year round. Sheermal are baked in a tandoori oven and dipped in ghee once cooked. Contrary to popular Indian taste, I prefer less ghee and ask for one right from the tandoor before the ghee dipping. If you’ve been eating your way through Old Delhi and have no room left for sheermal, get one or two to go. They make a nice breakfast the next morning.
- Address: No. 73 Matia Mahal Road (across from Gate 1 of Jama Masjid), Bazar Matia Mahal, Old Delhi
- Website: none
9. Karim’s $
Karim’s is the most famous of Old Delhi eateries. It was established in 1913 and has been serving Mughal dishes ever since. In fact, Haji Karimuddin who started the eatery is the son of the last cook for the Mughal royal family. He learned the dishes from his father and these recipes are still served today. When Karim’s started it was tiny and only served two dishes, mutton potato curry and dal. It has steadily expanded and now takes up the entire cul de sac.
I’ve never eaten anything at Karim’s I didn’t like – meat and veg – it’s all fantastic, but they are really well known for chicken jahangir, seekh kebabs and that Old Delhi specialty, nihari. Karim’s franchises can now be found all over Delhi (and I’ve tried a couple), but nothing matches the atmosphere of the original Old Delhi location.
- Address: No. 16 Gali Kababian (off Matia Mahal Road, across from Gate 1 of Jama Masjid), Bazar Matia Mahal, Old Delhi
- Website: none
10. Aslam Chicken $
Aslam Chicken is a must for butter chicken with rumali roti. The chicken is marinated in yogurt, chilies and spices, then grilled on a coal fire, and finally doused in a butter and cream sauce. Not for anyone watching their cholesterol for sure, but it is delectable, and once in a blue moon shouldn’t hurt too much! There are a few fish options and a couple of paneer dishes on the menu, but the main thing here is chicken.
There are two locations on Matia Mahal Road in Old Delhi. Both serve the same food, but I prefer the newer location. It’s on Matia Mahal just up from Al Jawarhar on the opposite side of the street. It’s pretty hard to miss with its bright red and gold signage, but if you do, just keep going and you’ll arrive at the original location.
Delhi’s best dessert shop, Cool Point, is next door. Get some shahi tudka for dessert if you have room!
- Address: Matia Mahal Road (across from Gate 1 of the Jama Masjid), across the road from Rehmatullah Hotel, Bazar Matia Mahal, Old Delhi
- Website: none
11. Qureshi Kabab Corner $
This place is strictly for meat lovers. Come here for the best kabobs in Old Delhi. You can’t miss this place – it’s the one with the big grill on the street and the crowd out front.
You can grab your kebabs to eat on the street or go inside to the dining area. The seekh kebabs are tender, juicy and very flavourful, served with mint chutney and raw onion. You won’t be disappointed, it’s some of the best food in Old Delhi.
This is one spot where I usually see foreigners, which is unusual for an Old Delhi joint.
- Address: No. K-140 Meena Bazar Road (opposite Gate 2 of Jama Masjid) Meena Bazaar, Old Delhi
- Website: none
12. Rehmatullah Hotel $
This is a great reliable restaurant near Jama Masjid that’s a bit of a hidden gem. Food is delicious and reasonably priced, and there’s enough on the menu to please meat eaters and vegetarians alike (unusual for this part of Old Delhi).
What I really love to get here are the mawa jalebis (black jalebis). They are completely different from their traditional orange counterpart and are only available in this part of Delhi. You can also get mawa gulab jamun.
Now on its third generation, Rehmatullah Hotel has been serving Mughlai dishes since the 1960s. It gets very busy in here during peak times, they have a large local clientele.
- Address: No. 105 – 110 Matia Mahal Road (opposite Gate 1 Jama Masjid), Bazar Matia Mahal, Old Delhi
- Website: https://www.rehmatullahhotel.in/index
13. Cool Point $ (Vegetarian)
This Indian dessert shop is a must if you are craving something rich and sweet. They sell Indian classic desserts like rabri, kheer, kulfi and faluda, but what they are famous for is something called shahi tudka. It’s a Mughal era dessert that translates to ‘royal bite.’
I guess you could say shahi tudka is like bread pudding, but more exotic. Bread crumbs are fried in clarified butter, then layered with rabri (a rich, milk based pudding), saffron, dried nuts and fruit. In summer I order it with kulfi (Indian ice cream).
- Address: No. 5 Matia Mahal Road (opposite Gate 1 Jama Masjid), Bazar Matia Mahal, Old Delhi
- Website: none
14. Ebony Cafe $
This small bistro is a rare find in Old Delhi. If you are craving some non-Indian food like burgers, pizza, waffles, milkshakes, frappes and ice tea while in Old Delhi, this is the best place for you. It’s the perfect spot if you are needing a quiet break from Old Delhi and are craving an American style milkshakes or frappe.
The contemporary design is a stark contrast to the rest of eateries in Old Delhi. In fact, it would be easy to forget you’re in Old Delhi except for its location directly across from Gate 3 of the Jama Masjid. If it’s not too hot, sit outside on the terrace to enjoy the spectacular views of the mosque and the general Old Delhi mayhem. Keep in mind it doesn’t open until 3:00 pm.
The cafe is a little hard to find because it’s tucked into the corner where Jama Masjid Road and Patel Gali Road meet, but it’s there at street level.
- Address: No. 1052 Jama Masjid Road (across from Gate 3 of Jama Masjid), Pai Walan, Old Delhi
- Website: none
15. Haldiram’s $ (Vegetarian)
India’s favourite food chain is one of the best places to eat in Old Delhi if you want to try traditional street foods in a more hygienic setting. Haldiram’s is a casual, cafeteria style restaurant offering a variety of Indian meals and chaats (snacks). My favourites are raj kachori, chole bhatura and sarson ka saag when it’s in season, but everything is good.
I count even tell you how many times and at how many different Haldiram’s locations I’ve eaten – but it is consistently good.
- Address: No. 1454 Chandni Chowk Road (just west of HC Sen Marg), Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi
- Website: https://www.haldirams.com/
16. Paranthe Wali Gali $
Paranthe Wali Gali is not a restaurant, it is an alley with many parantha shops. The lane is a little hard to find, but I can tell you exactly where to find it. If you are heading west on Chandni Chowk toward Fatehpuri Masjid, stick to the west side of the street. A little past Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib there’s a street food shop called Kanwarji Raj Kumar and on that corner there’s a lane – that is Paranthe Wali Gali. This is actually the beginning of Kinari Bazaar, Old Delhi’s famous wedding market.
I don’t think it matters which parantha shop you eat at – they all claim to be the best and the original. Just look for one that seems busy. I love the variety of paranthas but beware, the paranthas are all deep fried. Personally I’m not a fan (I prefer the dry tava cooking method), but clearly many disagree because these shops are packed.
- Address: Paranthe Wali Gali (off Chandni Chowk Road), Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi
- Website: none
17. Jain Coffee House $ (Vegetarian)
For a truly Old Delhi experience, make your way to this tiny little shop for coffee and fruit sandwiches. I recommend getting them toasted – you’ll have to ask for this. This shop is nothing to look at, but the sandwiches are healthy and unique.
Jain Coffee House has been an Old Delhi landmark since 1948. This part of Delhi used to be the red light district back in Mughal times. Today it is famous for its street food and stationary market.
If fruit sandwiches aren’t your thing (but you should try them at least once), you can order a tomato and paneer sandwich.
- Address: No. 4013 Ballimaran Road, Chawri Bazaar, Old Delhi (but it is off Chawri Bazaar Road, down a lane beside the Punjab National Bank ATM)
- Website: none
18. Kanwarji Raj Kumar Bhatura Junction $ (Vegetarian)
This will be some of the best chole bhatura you ever eat in your life. Don’t even bother with anything else! I had never heard of this place until I discovered it walking up Chandni Chowk one day and saw the lineup of locals. I figured it must be good, so I ordered a plate which turned out be chole bhatura. Chole is a thick chick pea curry and bhatura are the puffy breads it is served with. This is a common breakfast dish in Old Delhi.
Ignore Google maps on this one. Bhatura Junction is located right on Chandni Chowk, just west of Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, on the same side of the street. You have to pay for your food at the Kanwarjis Sweets window just around the corner first, and then order your food at the Bhatura Junction window. This will be some of the best food you eat in Old Delhi. There’s no seating – I usually just park myself on one of the benches in the middle of Chandni Chowk.
- Address: Chandni Chowk Road at the corner of Paranthe Wali Gali, Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi
- Website: none
19. Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib (Vegetarian)
For a unique spiritual and cultural experience go to Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib and have langar. Langar is the free meal served at gurudwaras (Sikh temples). Everyone is welcome to join langar, regardless of religion. I often have langar whenever I visit a gurudwara. Truth be told, I usually try and time my visits for lunch time because I really enjoy sharing a community meal in a spiritual setting.
After visiting the temple make your way over to the langar hall. Everyone sits on the floor while volunteers walk up and down the aisles dishing out rice, chapatis, dal and a vegetable dish. You can eat as much as you want, but you should finish everything on your plate as the food is considered blessed. Langar is available all day at Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib.
This is one of the most important temples in the Sikh community. It is where the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur, was killed in 1675. The temple is one of the most historic sites in Delhi and worth visiting, even if you don’t have langar.
Shoes must be removed and heads covered to enter. Bandanas are available to borrow if you need one.
- Address: Chandni Chowk Road (south side, just past Dariba Kalan Road if you’re coming from the Red Fort end), Chandni Chowk, New Delhi
- Website: https://dsgmc.in/dharmparchar/gurdwarasisganjsahib
20. Hira Laal Chaat Corner $ (Vegetarian)
This food stand is famous for kuliya chaat (fruit chaat). The stand is very humble, even I had a moment of doubt the first time I went there, but all doubts vanished the moment I tasted the kuliya chaat. It is simply the best in Delhi.
Fresh chunks of seasonal fruit are filled with a spicy mixture of black salt, cumin, lemon juice, chaat masala, chick peas and pomegranate seeds. It’s delicious and super healthy. Fruit chaat is also made with cucumber, sweet potato and tomato. Each full plate of kuliya chaat will usually include one or two of these.
The stand is kind of hard to find because all the signage is in Hindi. But it’s on Chawri Bazar Road on the corner of a little lane. Just ask a local – they all know the shop.
- Address: No. 3636 Gali Lohe Wali (on Chawri Bazar Road), Chawri Bazar, Old Delhi
- Website: none
21. Sikander Omelette $ (Vegetarian)
If you like omelets you absolutely have to come here. The proprietor is the Julia Child of omelets, and almost as famous locally. Recently he created a social media outrage when he was filmed adding Parle-G biscuits to an omelet. Delhiites were horrified! While I’ve never tried the Parle-G biscuit omelet, I have had the omelet with Lay’s Magic Masala potato chips and it was great – this man knows what he’s doing!
Sikander Omelette started in the 1960s with just a cart. It became so popular the founder, Mohammed Sikander, opened a shop and it’s been going strong ever since. Forget about coming here for breakfast – it doesn’t open until 3:00 or 4:00 in the afternoon. It’s that special brand of India crazy – chick pea curry is available for breakfast, but the omelet place doesn’t open until almost dinner time.
- Address: No. 1425 Sitaram Bazar Road, Bazar Sirkiwalan, Hauz Qazi, Old Delhi
- Website: none
22. Kuremal Mohan Lal $ (Vegetarian)
Kuremal Mohan Lal is a legend. It was the first to offer kulfi (India’s version of ice cream) stuffed in whole frozen fruits. The shop has been in Old Delhi for over 100 years and has been featured in international travel and food shows.
For best flavour, order whatever fruit is in season – mango during the summer, orange and pomegranate during the winter. Kuflis are all made from 100% natural ingredients. The stuffed kulfi is expensive (INR 200-250), but it’s wonderful and worth every rupee.
There are other shops with very similar names in the same area. The one you want is at the address noted below, and has a yellow and red sign with the full name.
- Address: No. 526 Kucha Pati Ram, Chawri Bazaar
- Website: none
23. Old Kheer Shop $ (Vegetarian)
True to its name, Old Kheer Shop started in 1880. This is the place to come to for kheer, Indian rice pudding. It’s the only thing on the menu and it’s excellent. The kheer is cooked over a wood fire using the original family recipe. It’s creamy and not overly sweet, one of the best kheers in Delhi. You can buy it by the serving or kilo.
It’s a very basic shop, but at least the signage is in English so you should be able to find it easily. Don’t go too late because the shop often sells out.
- Address: No. 2867 Lalkuan Bazar Road (across from Masjid Badal Beig), Chawri Bazar, Old Delhi
- Website: none
24. Kake di Hatti $ (Vegetarian)
Vegetarians this restaurant is for you! Kake di Hatti is completely vegetarian, unusual for Old Delhi. It’s a very casual dhaba at the top of Chandni Chowk near Fatehpuri Masjid and around the corner from the famous spice market, Khari Baoli.
The restaurant shot to international fame when Jamie Oliver visited and declared it the “king of naan.” Indeed, they make a tandoori naan large enough for 3 people; apparently the largest in India. I usually order the dal makhani with rice, but in winter I always get sarson ka saag and makki ki roti (creamed mustard leaves with corn flour rotis) – they make one of the best in the entire city.
If you check out their website, the photos are from one of the franchise locations, definitely not the Old Delhi shop; don’t expect anything fancy.
- Address: No. 654-655 Church Mission Road, Fatehpuri, Old Delhi
- Website: https://kakedihatti.com/
25. Giani’s di Hatti $ (Vegetarian)
Giani’s is one of India’s best ice cream chains. I was surprised to find this shop in Old Delhi which turned out to be the original Giani’s from 1956. This location is known for rabri faluda. Rabri faluda is an Indian dessert made by layering sweet vermicelli with rabri and nuts.
Even though this location sells chole bhatura, don’t get it here (Kanwarji Raj Kumar Bhatura Junction just down Chandni Chowk Road is the best place for that). But definitely do get the rabri faluda or ice cream – they will not disappoint.
Giani’s di Hatti is next to Fatehpuri Masjid and around the corner from the famous spice market, Khari Baoli.
- Address: Church Mission Road (next to Kake di Hatti), Fatehpuri, Old Delhi
- Website: https://www.gianisicecream.com
26. Shyam Sweets $ (Vegetarian)
This is one of the best sweet shops in Old Delhi. You can find all the traditional mithai (sweets) including seasonal specialties like gajar (carrot) and mung dal halwas in winter and ghiya (bottle gourd) ki barfi in summer.
The last time I was there it was in the morning, and I noticed the locals were all ordering bedmi puri (small puffy bread) with aloo sabzi (potato) or chole. I was the only one eating sweets. As it turns out, Shyam Sweets is famous for this breakfast, but you have to come before 1:00 pm to get it. Another popular breakfast item is nagori (small, crispy puffed breads) with halwa. Seems like a strange combination, but locals were definitely enjoying it. The lassi is also excellent.
- Address: No. 112 Manohar Market (at the intersection of Chawri Bazar Road and Nai Sarak), Chawri Bazar, Old Delhi
- Website: none
Things to Keep in Mind When Eating in Old Delhi
- drink bottled water and not the water served
- wash your hands before eating (dhabas and restaurants always have a sink, usually outside the restrooms, for this purpose), or at least use hand sanitizer – you’ll probably be using your hands for eating
- restaurants are often called hotels (there’s a historic reason for this stemming from the purpose of a restaurant as a place of rest and refreshment)
- some shops only accept cash
- parking is very limited
- not all restaurants and shops have bathrooms (I use the one at Chawri Bazaar metro station or Haldiram’s when in a pinch)
- Chandni Chowk and Chawri Bazaar markets are closed on Sunday. Some restaurants and street food stands may not be open.
What Else to See While Eating the Best Food in Old Delhi
Old Delhi is the most historic part of the city. In fact, Old Delhi is on the UNESCO tentative list as a world heritage city. While you’re out enjoying the best food in Old Delhi, check out some of these nearby sites:
- Red Fort (UNESCO)
- Jama Masjid
- Khari Baoli
- Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib
- Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir & Bird Hospital
- Fatehpuri Masjid
- Haveli Mizra Ghalib
- Naughara Gali
- Chandni Chowk Specialty Markets
- Kathika Cultural Centre
What is the Best Way to Get to Old Delhi?
The best way to get to Old Delhi to try the best food is by metro. Even though the distance between Old Delhi and New Delhi is only about 6 km, traffic is very congested in this part of the city and there isn’t much parking. Also, motorized vehicles are forbidden on Chandni Chowk between 9:00 am and 9:00 pm daily.
There are 4 metro stations with several entrances and exits in Old Delhi: Chawri Bazar and Chandni Chowk (both on Yellow line) and Lal Quila and Jama Masjid (both on the Violet line). The Delhi metro is very easy to use, cheap, clean and fast.
You can also take an Uber or Ola (the two most popular and reliable ride share apps in Delhi), or an auto rickshaw to Old Delhi. I love taking auto rickshaws, but I avoid them in Old Delhi because they’re not enclosed and you’re exposed to the traffic noise and pollution.
The Wrap-up on 26 Places for the Best Food in Old Delhi
Old Delhi is a foodie’s dream destination. Nowhere else in Delhi will you find this kind of culinary diversity and heritage. Don’t be one of those visitors that is afraid to eat at the Old Delhi joints – that is where the best and often freshest food is!
Looking for More? You Might also Like…
- Heritage Walk of Old Delh: An Insider’s DIY Tour
- Old Delhi Street Food Tour: An Insider’s Food Walk
- 3 Markets for Street Food that Aren’t in Old Delhi
Don’t forget travel insurance! It’s always a good idea to carry travel insurance just in case something goes wrong. I really like and use SafetyWing
