Feroz Shah Kotla Fort in Delhi, Where the Djinns Live
Feroz Shah Kotla Fort is a historic fort in Delhi, widely believed to be inhabited by supernatural spirits, called djinns. Many locals refuse to visit Feroz Shah Kotla Fort, while other visit for exactly that reason – to convene with the spirits.
These aren’t just ghost stories – Delhiites firmly believe djinns live in Feroz Shah Kotla Fort. The first time I visited, several groups of girls stopped me and cautioned me to cover my blonde hair – they told me djinns love to attach to long hair.
Feroz Shah Kotla Fort in Delhi, Where the Djinns Live
Feroz Shah Kotla Fort was built in 1354 by ruler Feroz Shah Tughlaq. It is part of the fifth historical city of Delhi, Firozabad. There are extensive ruins including one of the oldest active mosques in the world and a unique circular stepwell.
It is widely accepted that djinns live at the fort. Believers regularly come to leave offerings and notes for the djinns. You’ll see them scattered around the fort, usually in dark corners and crevices.
Hours: 7:00 am – 7:00 pm (closed Monday)
Cost: INR 300
Location: Balmiki Basti, Vikram Nagar, New Delhi
Nearest metro station: ITO (Violet line), exit Gate 4
Where is Feroz Shah Kotla Fort?
Feroz Shah Kotla Fort is in east central Delhi, not far from the Yamuna River. Several of Delhi’s historic forts are built near the Yamuna River (at that time the river was much wider), an important water source.
How to Get There
The best way to reach Feroz Shah Kotla Fort is by Delhi metro or Uber. I’ve done both. The Delhi metro and Uber are both reliable.
If you take the metro to ITO station, take an auto rickshaw from there to the fort, that’s what I did. This is not a good walking area of Delhi – the fort is hemmed in by some of Delhi’s busiest roads.
History of Feroz Shah Kotla Fort
The fort was built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in 1354 as the citadel for his fortified city Firozabad, the fifth historical city of Delhi. The city and capital were moved here from Tughlaqabad Fort because of the water shortage in that area.
The fort is impressive with extensive ruins including one of the oldest active mosques in the world, a citadel, palace, secret chambers and a unique circular baoli (stepwell).
The baoli (the only circular baoli in Delhi) has underground water chambers and a canal system which would have supplied water to the entire fort, including the palace, gardens and for the animals.
In later years the fort was heavily plundered for building materials by subsequent rulers, and much of it was used to build Shahjahanabad (now Old Delhi).
How to Visit Feroz Shah Kotla Fort
It’s easy to visit Feroz Shah Kotla Fort, but there’s a couple of things that are good to know:
- Long hair should be covered or tied back. You might not believe in djinns, but this will appease the locals who will worry for you if your hair is not covered.
- Shoes must be removed, and ladies must cover their hair to enter the mosque. Even though it’s a ruin, it is still an active mosque. The mosque is the structure on top of the long flight of stairs.
Thursday is the best day to visit the fort, when hundreds of believers come to pray to the djinns.
The Djinns
What is a djinn? A djinn is a supernatural creature, stemming from ancient Islamic belief. Djinns can be good or bad, and are capable of shape shifting, travelling long distances quickly, and manipulating humans. They live for thousands of years.
The belief that djinns live at Feroz Shah Kotla Fort began just after the Emergency in 1977 (a dark time in India’s history when civil liberties were suspended). A saint living in Feroz Shah Kotla Fort told his followers that certain energies in the form of djinns were present and could fulfil wishes.
Since then, every Thursday (an auspicious day when djinns are likely to be generous) crowds of people visit Feroz Shah Kotla Fort to pray to the djinns. They leave secrets and wishes written on paper, light candles, and leave flowers and rice for the djinns.
According to legend, the most evil djinns are locked up in a dungeon beneath the steps of the Jami Masjid at the fort. The last time I was there I saw a man praying in front of one of the barred windows.
I’m oblivious to supernatural energy and spirits, but I once visited the fort with an American friend whose grandmother had been a kind of medium.
As we walked toward one of the ruined buildings she suddenly came to a dead stop. She said she felt a strong energy pushing her back from the threshold, and she wouldn’t take one more step toward the ruin. That kind of spooked me too, so I also didn’t go any further!
A Ministry of Djinns
People believe there is an organized ministry of djinns at the fort, with different departments dealing with different problems. At midnight the djinns hold a meeting to discuss the requests and decide which ones to grant through Allah.
Believers make photocopies of their letters for the djinns and leave them at various places throughout the fort to ensure the correct department receives the request.
When you visit the fort, you’ll notice a tall pillar on top of a 3 storied ruin. That’s an ancient Ashoka pillar, and it’s believed the chief of the fort djinns, Laat Waale Baba, lives in it.
Laat Waale Baba is a powerful djinn, and it is said any wish written on paper and tied to the railing of the pillar will be granted if the believer touches the pillar.
The Ashoka Pillar
Incredibly, there is an Ashoka Pillar from the 3rd century BC at the fort, on top of a ruined 3 storied pyramid style building. It is named Minar-e-Zareen, the Golden Pillar.
The pillar is inscribed in ancient Brahmi script. The inscriptions are seven teachings based on Ashoka’s Buddhist beliefs on how to rule righteously and spread dharma.
Feroz Shah Tughlaq had the pillar brought 90 miles from Topra, and it was a herculean task. It took 8,000 soldiers to transport the pillar by an enormous carriage and then on the Yamuna River in a massive boat.
It’s believed Laat Waale Baba, the chief djinn, lives in the Minar-e-Zareen. On Thursday people come and leave notes to the djinn tucked into the iron fence surrounding the building.
What Else to See Near Feroz Shah Kotla Fort
This part of Delhi is busy and unattractive, but there are a few sites you could easily reach by auto rickshaw from here:
- National Gandhi Museum: Moving collection of personal items belonging to Mahatma Gandhi. A moving, small museum.
- Raj Ghat: Sacred memorial and place of cremation of Mahatma Gandhi. A must visit for all Delhi first-timers.
- Shankar’s International Dolls Museum: A collection of over 7,000 dolls from all over the world.
- India Gate: War memorial resembling the Arc de Triomphe. Cultural and meeting hub – always lots of activity.
- Connaught Place: Unofficial centre of Delhi, a commercial and retail hub with colonnaded sidewalks. Many shops and restaurants.
Where to Stay in Delhi
The best area to stay is South Delhi or central Delhi up to Connaught Place. This is the safest and nicest part of the city, close to the main sites. I highly recommend these hotels:
- The Imperial (luxury): Delhi’s finest heritage hotel and my personal favourite. Superb location, within walking distance of numerous shops, restaurants and attractions.
- Lutyens Bungalow (mid-range): Heritage boutique property in one of the best areas of the city next to Lodhi Garden. Fantastic location near many sites. Breakfast is included.
- Prakash Kutir Bed & Breakfast (budget): Family run guest house in a very good area of South Delhi, near the metro and easy to visit all the sites. Home-cooked breakfast is included.
Last Words on How to Visit Feroz Shah Kotla Fort in Delhi
Feroz Shah Kotla is an impressive fort with an Ashoka Pillar, ancient mosque and round stepwell, but what really makes it interesting is the deep rooted djinn culture. It’s fascinating to witness this kind of belief today, and to consider there may be something to it.
