Delhi in Winter: An Insider’s Guide
Many people are surprised to find out there is winter in Delhi. Delhi is in northern India, and Himalyan winds sweep down the northern plains of the country in December and January bringing colder temperatures.
Delhi doesn’t get cold or snow like Canada, but the cold weeks have their challenges. I found Delhi winters more difficult than Canadian winters, mostly because there’s very little central heating.
Things to Know Before You Go to Delhi in Winter
Honesty, winter is not the best time to visit Delhi. It’s the coldest and most polluted time of the year. I’m talking about December 15 – January 30.
But, if you are travelling to Delhi in winter, here’s what to know:
Winter Weather in Delhi
Winter in Delhi is December 15 to January 30. Temperatures range from 0 to 20 Celsius (32 to 68 Fahrenheit). Nights are cold, but the daytime can be very pleasant, especially for sightseeing.
These temperatures may not seem overly cold (especially if you’re from Canada like me) but most homes, apartments, businesses and schools do not have central heat. Anyone that can afford it uses portable electric or oil heaters in their homes.
It never snows in Delhi, but it gets foggy. I’m talking about a dense, low lying fog that hangs around every morning and some evenings, making driving conditions hazardous.
Pollution in Winter
Pollution levels are at their most high in winter. The worst months are November, December and January. Air quality is never great in Delhi, but in winter it’s practically toxic.
On extreme days the AQI will be over 500. An expat friend told me one day she had 3 air purifiers going in her home, and the AQI still measured over 1600.
There’s a few reasons for the horrible winter pollution – Diwali fireworks, stubble burning of fields in neighbouring Punjab and mostly because there’s little wind to push the air out of the Indo-Gangetic Basin that Delhi sits in.
Anyone with asthma, respiratory issues, pregnant women, seniors and children should avoid visiting or spending much time in Delhi in winter.
What to Pack for Delhi in Winter
Pack warm clothes like woolen sweaters, sweatshirts, thick socks and slippers. A light winter coat, hat, scarf and closed toe shoes should suffice for outdoors.
If you’re staying in a luxury hotel or high end guest house they’ll have heat, but otherwise make sure to have a few sweaters and warm socks to wear inside.
Getting Around Delhi in Winter
It’s easy to get around Delhi in winter. It’s a dry season and the cold does not affect transportation, although the thick fog can make driving more challenging.
The best way to get around Delhi at any time of year is the Delhi metro. It’s one of the best metro systems in the world, and it goes everywhere. The metro is easy to use, clean, cheap and heated.
Other ways of moving around the city are using a ride sharing app like Uber or Ola and taking auto rickshaws for shorter distances. Bring a jacket for the auto rickshaws, they are not enclosed and get cold in winter.
Things to Do in Delhi in Winter
The cooler temperatures of winter are perfect for exploring Delhi. Here’s what to do:
1. Go sightseeing
Delhi is one of the oldest and most historical cities in the world, and winter is the perfect time to explore it.
Check out some of Delhi’s most amazing sites like Mehrauli Archeological Park, Agrasen ki Baoli and Humayun’s Tomb in South Delhi. Or spend the day visiting top sites of Old Delhi, like the Red Fort (UNESCO), Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid.
2. Enjoy seasonal winter foods in Delhi
Delhi is the food capital of India and winter brings special foods that are only available during the colder months.
The number one specialty that Delhiites look forward to every winter is sarson ka saag and makki ki roti. It’s a healthy dish made with mustard leaves and served with crispy corn rotis. Many restaurants add this to their menu in winter.
You’ll also see stands on many Delhi streets selling shakarkandi ki chaat (roasted sweet potato tossed with masala and lemon juice), a super healthy street food.
Delhi has special sweets that are only available in winter too, like frothy daulat ki chaat, found in the lanes of Old Delhi, and gajar (carrot) halwa.
3. Go souvenir shopping at Dilli Haat INA
This wonderful outdoor market is one of Delhi’s favourite shopping destinations for locals and visitors. It’s a pedestrian only cultural and handicrafts market with stalls selling products from all across India.
Have lunch at the Dilli Haat food court while there. It’s an excellent food court with local specialties from many different states in India. Entrance fee for Dilli Haat INA is INR 100 and it’s open 10:30 am – 10:00 pm daily.
4. Go bird watching at Okhla Bird Sanctuary
Winter is when migratory birds come through Delhi and it’s the ideal time of year for birding. The best place for bird watching is Okhla Bird Sanctuary on the Yamuna River, which hosts over 300 species of birds.
Okhla Bird Sanctuary is open 7:30 am – 5:00 pm, daily and the entrance fee is INR 350 (foreigner) and INR 1000 for a camera. It’s located in Noida (on the opposite side of the Yamuna River) near the Okhla Bird Sanctuary metro station.
5. Soak up the sun at one of Delhi’s favourite parks
For a very local experience, pack a lunch and picnic at one of the Delhi’s favourite parks. Winters in Delhi can be cloudy and cold, so when the sun does shine, take advantage of it and enjoy the time outdoors.
6. Get cultural at one of Delhi’s museums
Delhi has many wonderful museums. Most are free.
Learn all about the history of toilets at the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets, discover the story behind India’s division in the Partition Museum, walk through heritage railway cars in the National Rail Museum, or see modern art at the National Gallery of Modern Art.
7. Eat Indian comfort food at a local dhaba
Eat at one of the famous dhabas in Delhi. Dhabas are no-frills restaurants where the furnishings and service are basic, but the food is amazing.
They’re one of the best cheap places to eat in Delhi, and it’s a very authentic Delhi experience. The best ones are always busy, often with a lineup outside.
Warm up with butter chicken at Rajinder da Dhaba, indulge in dal makhni at Kake da Hotel or enjoy the famous stuffed nan at Kake di Hatti.
8. Cozy up with a hot chocolate
Warm up in Delhi with a rich cup of hot chocolate. Delhi has lots of wonderful spots to get hot chocolate, like Choko La in Khan Market or Cafe Dori in Dhan Mill Compound.
If you really want to warm up, add a shot of Old Monk rum to your hot chocolate – rum has a warming effect on the body, and the Indian brand Old Monk is excellent.
9. Enjoy lunch and shopping at Dhan Mill Compound
This is the perfect time of year to have a leisurely lunch in Delhi’s newest hotspot, Dhan Mill Compound.
Originally a warehouse and granary, it is now a hip, vibrant space full of cafes, designer shops and galleries. Cafe Dori, one of Delhi’s best cafes, and the Palette Cafe are good options.
The Chhatarpur Temple Complex is just up the road from Dhan Mill Compound. It’s a fascinating Hindu temple complex.
10. Treat yourself to a spa day
Nothing combats the dreary winter days in Delhi like a day at the spa. Ayurvedic massages with hot oil, steam rooms, hammam rub downs, body wraps, aromatherapy – Delhi has it all.
The city has beautiful spas and wellness clinics, especially in the luxury hotels, but there’s also some more affordable options with excellent service.
Here’s a list of the best spas and places to get a massage in Delhi.
Where to Stay in Delhi in Winter
In Delhi, where you stay matters. Not only because the city is massive and you want to be near the sites, but also in terms of safety. The best area to stay in is South Delhi.
In winter you also want to make sure there will heat, hot water and an air purifier.
I am very familiar with these properties, and recommend them because they are exceptional and in good neighbourhoods. They are also well located for seeing Delhi.
- Leela Palace New Delhi (luxury): 5 star property and considered Delhi’s finest hotel. It’s a beautiful property located in the greenest part of New Delhi near the embassies. It also has an advanced air purification system. Central location for sightseeing.
- Lutyens Bungalow (mid-range): Heritage boutique property in one of the best areas of the city next to Lodhi Garden. They provide heaters and air purifiers for guest rooms in winter. Fantastic area near many sites. Breakfast is included.
- Prakash Kutir Bed & Breakfast (budget): Family run guest house in a very good area of South Delhi, near the metro and easy to explore the whole city from. Spotlessly clean. They provide heaters in winter. Home-cooked breakfast is included.
Last Words on Delhi in Winter: An Insider’s Guide
Winter is not my first choice for when to be in Delhi, but there are advantages. There’s fewer tourists and the weather is cooler for sightseeing. Just be aware pollution is an issue, and you will need warmer clothes.
