25 Places for the Best Food in Old Delhi
If Delhi is the food capital of India, Old Delhi is the epicentre. I lived in Delhi for years and have eaten all over Old Delhi. It’s my favourite thing to do. These are my favourite spots for the best food in Old Delhi.
When it comes to food, I don’t discriminate. I’ll eat in the most humble roadside eateries and fancy dining rooms – if it’s good food, the venue doesn’t matter much to me.
Wherever you eat in Old Delhi the experience will be fascinating and delicious. Old Delhi’s streets and lanes are an intriguing labyrinth of cuisine, history and culture.
Here’s a quick list of my favourite places for the best food in Old Delhi:
- Karim’s: Famous dhaba for Mughal cuisine
- Aslam Chicken: Local eatery specializing in chicken
- Kanwarji Raj Kumar Bhatura Junction: Roadside stand famous for chole bhature
- Sikander Omelette: Casual stand with imaginative omelettes
Where to Eat the Best Food in Old Delhi
Between the restaurants, dhabas and street food stands, there is so much choice! These are the ones I visit because they have the best food:
1. Karim’s
Karim’s is one of Delhi’s most famous restaurants. It was established in 1913 and has been serving Mughal dishes ever since.
In fact, Haji Karimuddin who started the eatery is the son of the last cook for the Mughal royal family. He learned the dishes from his father and these recipes are still served today. The food is fantastic.
Karim’s franchises can now be found all over Delhi (and I’ve tried a couple), but nothing matches the atmosphere of the original Old Delhi location.
It’s down a tiny lane off the busy market of Matia Mahal. I still had to ask several locals for directions even though I’ve been there before.
2. Aslam Chicken
Aslam Chicken is a must for butter chicken with rumali roti. The chicken is marinated in yogurt, chilies and spices, then grilled on a coal fire, and finally doused in a butter and cream sauce.
There are two locations on Matia Mahal Road in Old Delhi. Both serve the same food, but I prefer the newer location. It’s on Matia Mahal just up from Al Jawarhar restaurant on the opposite side of the street.
Delhi’s best dessert shop, Cool Point, is next door. Get some shahi tudka for dessert after.
3. Kanwarji Raj Kumar Bhatura Junction
The thing to get here is chole bhature. It will be some of the best food you eat in Old Delhi.
Chole is a thick chick pea curry and bhatura are the puffy breads it is served with. This is a common breakfast dish in Old Delhi.
I discovered Bhatura Junction one day while walking up Chandni Chowk. There was a huge lineup of locals, so I knew it must be good. Now it’s one of my go to places.
Bhatura Junction is right on Chandni Chowk, just west of Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, on the same side of the street. There’s no seating, so I sit on one of the benches on Chandni Chowk.
4. Sikander Omelette
If you like omelettes you absolutely have to come here. The proprietor is the Julia Child of omelettes, and almost as famous locally.
Recently he created a social media outrage when he was filmed adding Parle-G biscuits to an omelette. Delhiites were horrified!
Sikander Omelette started in the 1960s with just a cart. It became so popular the owner opened a shop, and it’s been going strong ever since.
I have been wanting to eat here for ages (I’m dying to try the Lay’s Magic Masala potato chip omelette), but every time I come it’s closed. The last time I was there the proprietor next door told me it doesn’t open until 5:00 pm.
5. Lakhori
This is Old Delhi’s only fine dining restaurant. It’s located in Haveli Dharampura, a beautifully restored haveli built in the 1800s. A meal here is special.
The restaurant is gorgeous, and the menu is inspired by traditional Mughal cuisine and the street food Old Delhi is famous for. Food and service are very good, but the real star is the actual haveli.
Since 99% of Old Delhi’s havelis are completely dilapidated this is a unique experience to see one up close.
6. Al-Gulzar
If you are a meat eater, you will enjoy Al-Gulzar. This restaurant is very popular with locals because of its location close to Jama Masjid. It’s one of the fancier restaurants on the street and has AC.
The menu is predominately chicken and mutton. One specialty they make is mutton nihari, the slow cooked meat dish from Pakistan. Not many places in Delhi make it anymore and Al-Gulzar is famous for it.
If you’re keen on street food, check out this self-guided street food walk of Old Delhi.
7. Al Jawahar
Al Jawahar opened in 1948 and is still run by the same family, now on its fourth generation. It’s famous for authentic Mughlai cuisine (a marriage of Mughal and North Indian cuisines, typically quite rich and full of aromatic spices).
Make sure you order tandoor roti and nihari, but keep in mind the nihari finishes early here – it’s served for breakfast.
8. Paranthe Wali Gali
Paranthe Wali Gali is not a restaurant, it is an alley with many parantha shops just off the most famous street in Old Delhi, Chandni Chowk.
I don’t think it matters which parantha shop you eat at – they all claim to be the best and the original. Just look for one that’s busy.
I love the huge variety of paranthas, but they deep fry them here. Personally I’m not a fan (I prefer the dry tava cooking method), but clearly many disagree because these shops are packed.
9. Haldiram’s
Haldiram’s is a casual, cafeteria style restaurant offering a variety of Indian meals and chaats (snacks). My favourites are raj kachori, chole bhatura and sarson ka saag when it’s in season, but everything is good.
This is one of the best places to eat in Old Delhi if you want to try traditional street foods in a more hygienic setting. I’ve eaten at numerous Haldiram’s all over Delhi. It’s consistently good.
10. Jain Coffee House
For a truly Old Delhi experience, make your way to this tiny little shop for coffee and fruit sandwiches. This shop is nothing to look at, but the sandwiches are healthy and unique.
If fruit sandwiches aren’t your thing (but you should try them at least once), you can get a tomato and paneer sandwich.
Jain Coffee House has been an Old Delhi landmark since 1948. It’s off Chawri Bazaar Road, down a lane beside the Pungam National Bank atm.
11. Shyam Sweets
Shyam Sweets is one of the best sweet shops in Delhi. You can find all the traditional mithai (sweets) including seasonal specialties like gajar (carrot) and mung dal halwas in winter, and ghiya (bottle gourd) ki barfi in summer.
The last time I was there it was morning, and the locals were all ordering bedmi puri (small puffy bread) with aloo sabzi (potato). It turns out Shyam Sweets is famous for this breakfast, but you have to come before 1:00 pm to get it.
Another popular breakfast item is nagori (small, crispy puffed breads) with halwa. Seems like a strange combination, but locals were definitely enjoying it. The lassi is also excellent.
12. Qureshi Kabab Corner
This place is strictly for meat lovers. Come here for the best kabobs in Old Delhi. You can’t miss this place – it’s the one with the big grill on the street and the crowd out front.
You can grab your kebabs to eat on the street or go inside to the dining area. The seekh kebabs are tender, juicy and very flavourful, served with mint chutney and raw onion. You won’t be disappointed, it’s some of the best food I’ve eaten in Old Delhi.
This is one spot where I usually see foreigners, which is unusual for an Old Delhi joint.
13. Cool Point
This Indian dessert shop is a must if you are craving something rich and sweet.
They sell Indian classic desserts, but what they are famous for is something called shahi tudka. It’s a Mughal era dessert that translates to ‘royal bite.’
Shahi tudka is like bread pudding, but more exotic. Bread crumbs are fried in clarified butter, then layered with rabri (a rich, milk based pudding), saffron, dried nuts and fruit. In summer I order it with kulfi (Indian ice cream).
14. Hira Laal Chaat Corner
This food stand is famous for kuliya chaat (fruit chaat). It’s a very humble place and even I had doubts the first time I went there, but the moment I tasted the kuliya chaat, all doubts vanished. It is simply the best in Delhi.
Fresh chunks of seasonal fruit are filled with a spicy mixture of black salt, cumin, lemon juice, chaat masala, chick peas and pomegranate seeds. It’s delicious and super healthy.
The stand is kind of hard to find because all the signage is in Hindi. But it’s on Chawri Bazar Road on the corner of a little lane. Just ask a local – they all know the shop.
15. Changezi Chicken
This budget friendly family restaurant has a loyal following. The best thing to get here is the namesake dish, chicken changezi.
Chicken changezi is a Mughal dish which goes all the way back to Genghis Khan. It’s an aromatic curry made from onions, tomatoes, yogurt, and cream. That’s what I ordered and it was delicious.
While not officially in Old Delhi, it’s just barely on the outskirts and walkable.
16. Mughlai Invitation Restaurant
Mughlai Invitation Restaurant is another favourite Old Delhi restaurant specializing in meat curry, meat kabobs and tandoori meat.
It’s a very small, basic eatery and didn’t look too clean, but the food was some of the best I’ve had in Old Delhi.
Apart from rotis, there were no vegetarian options when I ate there. They’re famous for chicken malai tikka (grilled chicken marinated in spices and yogurt) and mutton raan (a whole leg of lamb).
17. Manzoor Hotel
Non-meat eaters this eatery is for you! Manzoor Hotel does serve a lot of meat, but they also make a wicked egg curry. Make you sure order khameeri rotis. These rotis are made with yeast and have a more complex flavour and texture than regular rotis.
Don’t let the look of this place put you off, it has some of the best food in Old Delhi. It’s a small and very humble eatery, and you’ll have to go well into Ballimaran market to find it. Just ask a local for Manzoor Hotel and they will direct you – it’s well known.
18. Haji Nadeem Shahi Sheermal
Sheermal is a sweet flatbread made with saffron and topped with dried fruits and nuts. You will find sheermal at different street stands in Old Delhi near Jama Masjid, but Haji Nadeem Shahi Sheermal is one of the best.
Sheermal are baked in a tandoori oven and dipped in ghee once cooked. I prefer less ghee and ask for one right from the tandoor before the ghee dipping. These are great packed for breakfast the next day.
19. Rehmatullah Hotel
This is a great reliable restaurant near Jama Masjid that’s a bit of a hidden gem.
Food is delicious and reasonably priced, and there’s enough on the menu to please meat eaters and vegetarians alike (unusual for this part of Old Delhi).
What I really love to get here are the mawa jalebis (black jalebis). They are completely different from their traditional orange counterpart, and are only available in this part of Delhi. You can also get mawa gulab jamun.
20. Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib
This is not a restaurant or eatery. Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib is a famous Sikh temple, and like all gurudwaras, they serve langar.
Langar is a free vegetarian meal served at gurudwaras. Everyone is welcome to join langar, regardless of religion. I love to have langar at gurudwaras. The food is fresh and delicious, but it’s also a special experience.
For langar everyone sits on the floor while volunteers walk up and down the aisles dishing out rice, chapatis, dal and a vegetable dish. You can eat as much as you want, but you should finish everything on your plate as the food is considered blessed.
Shoes must be removed and heads covered to enter. Bandanas are available to borrow if you need one.
21. Kuremal Mohan Lal
Kuremal Mohan Lal is a legend. The shop has been in Old Delhi for over 100 years and has been featured in international travel and food shows. It was the first to offer kulfi (Indian ice cream) in whole frozen fruits.
For the best flavour, order whatever fruit is in season – mango during the summer, orange and pomegranate during the winter. Kuflis are all made from 100% natural ingredients.
There are other shops with very similar names in the same area. The one you want is at No. 526 Kucha Pati Ram in Chawri Bazaar. It has a yellow and red sign with the full name.
22. Old Kheer Shop
True to its name, Old Kheer Shop started in 1880. This is the place to come to for kheer, Indian rice pudding. It’s the only thing on the menu and it’s excellent.
The kheer is cooked over a wood fire using the original family recipe. It’s creamy and not overly sweet, one of the best kheers in Delhi. You can buy it by the serving or kilo.
It’s a very basic shop (but clean), and the sign is so faded it’s almost impossible to read. Don’t go too late because the shop often sells out.
23. Kake di Hatti
Kake di Hatti is completely vegetarian, unusual for Old Delhi. It’s a very casual dhaba at the top of Chandni Chowk, around the corner from the famous spice market, Khari Baoli.
The restaurant shot to international fame when Jamie Oliver visited and declared it the “king of naan.” Indeed, they make a tandoori naan large enough for 3 people; apparently the largest in India.
In winter I always get sarson ka saag and makki ki roti (creamed mustard leaves with corn flour rotis). They make one of the best sarson ka saags in Delhi.
24. Giani’s di Hatti
Giani’s is one of Delhi’s best ice cream spots. I was surprised to find this shop in Old Delhi which turned out to be the original Giani’s from 1956.
This location makes an excellent rabri faluda. Rabri faluda is an Indian dessert made by layering sweet vermicelli with rabri and nuts.
Giani’s di Hatti is next to Kake di Hatti.
25. Ebony Cafe
This small bistro is a rare find in Old Delhi. If you are craving some non-Indian food like burgers, pizza, waffles, milkshakes, frappes and ice tea while in Old Delhi, this is the best place for you.
I admit it’s not the kind of food I go to Old Delhi for, but the location right across from the Jama Masjid is pretty cool. I usually get something to drink here and just people watch from the terrace.
The cafe is tucked into the corner where Jama Masjid Road and Patel Gali Road meet. It opens at 3:00 pm.
Things to Keep in Mind When Eating in Old Delhi
- Drink bottled water
- Wash your hands before eating (dhabas and restaurants always have a sink for this purpose)
- Restaurants are often called hotels
- Some shops only accept cash
- Not all restaurants and shops have bathrooms (I use the one at Chawri Bazaar metro station or Haldiram’s when in a bind)
- Not all restaurants and street food stands are open on Sunday
What is the Best Way to Get to Old Delhi?
The best way to get to Old Delhi for the best food is by metro. The distance between Old Delhi and New Delhi is only 6 km, but traffic is very congested. Also, motorized vehicles are forbidden on Chandni Chowk between 9:00 am and 9:00 pm daily.
The Delhi metro is very easy to use, cheap, clean and fast. There are 4 different stations in and around Old Delhi.
You can also take an Uber or Ola (the most popular ride share apps in Delhi), or an auto rickshaw to Old Delhi. I usually avoid rickshaws going to Old Delhi because they’re not enclosed and the traffic and pollution in Old Delhi is bad.
Last Words on 25 Places for the Best Food in Old Delhi
Old Delhi is a foodie’s dream destination. Nowhere else in Delhi will you find this kind of culinary diversity and heritage. Don’t be one of those visitors that is afraid to eat at the Old Delhi joints – that is where the best and often freshest food is!
